Why Mombasa’s Island Beaches Remain Unusable Despite Prime Location

Mombasa’s island beaches remain largely unusable despite their central location, with pollution, poor infrastructure and weak management limiting public access to the shoreline.

In many coastal cities, urban beaches form part of everyday life, offering space for recreation close to residential and commercial areas. In Mombasa, however, residents of the island are often forced to travel to the mainland’s North Coast to access clean and usable beaches. Popular areas such as Nyali, Bamburi and Jomo Kenyatta Public Beach attract large crowds, while island locations including Tudor Beach, Madhubaha and the Fort Jesus shoreline remain neglected.

Tudor Beach, which overlooks the Indian Ocean, has been heavily affected by sewage flowing into stormwater drains. The smell discourages swimming and limits visitor activity. Long-time residents say the beach was once used for diving and weekend recreation, but it is now largely abandoned.

Abdalla Mangale, a volunteer lifeguard at Tudor Beach since 2020, says efforts to improve the area have not addressed the main problem. “We have tried beautifying the place and even secured space for temporary toilets,” he says. “What drives people away is the sewage smell.” Although some visitors stop to enjoy the view, businesses in the area struggle due to low footfall.

Mama Ngina Waterfront near the Likoni ferry crossing offers a contrasting example. The site was redeveloped at a cost of Sh460 million and reopened in 2019 by then President Uhuru Kenyatta. Previously unsafe and poorly maintained, it is now the island’s primary public recreational waterfront, showing the impact of sustained investment and management.

Residents living near other island beaches say neglect has limited economic and social opportunities. Ahmed Said Mbarak, who lives near Fort Jesus, says poor infrastructure has prevented development despite strong visitor numbers. “Fort Jesus attracts many people, but without proper recreational facilities, the area cannot benefit,” he says.

Others express frustration at having to travel long distances to swim. Samuel Abdi from Mbaraki says trips to Bamburi are often the only option, while Athman Imran believes restoring island beaches would reduce travel time and make the city more active.

Mombasa County officials say rehabilitation plans are in progress. Mohamed Hussein, the County Executive Committee Member for Lands and Urban Planning, says measures include installing biodigesters in new developments and constructing a sewage treatment plant. He says beaches can support social and economic activity if existing challenges are addressed.

Tourism stakeholders point to governance problems as a key barrier. Dr Sam Ikwaye, Chief Executive of the Kenya Hotel Keepers and Caterers Association and Chair of the Mombasa Tourism Council, says overlapping responsibilities between county and national authorities have slowed progress. Draft beach management laws have been submitted in Mombasa and Kwale counties, but they have yet to be implemented.